FAQ

Answer: To achieve optimal results, set your mower at no less than 3 inches. Mow often, removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade. Mowing too short will put stress on the grass plant and cause damage to the turf.

Answer: As a commercial mowing company, GreenCare will sharpen our blades after every 8 to 24 hours, depending on mowing conditions. The average homeowner should have their mower blade(s) sharpened one time per month.

Answer: No, when mowing only a third with each cutting, you can safely leave the clippings that will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. FREE FERTILZER! Contrary to popular opinion, grass clippings do not add to thatch buildup.

Answer: Yes, GreenCare will stand behind its service. If you are not fully satisfied with your treatment, simply let us know and we will do what we can to make it right.

Answer: GreenCare recommends that you stay off of the treated area for 24 hours. While no pesticide may legally be classified as "completely safe", our products have a caution label and are very safe when used in consistency with the label.

Answer: It depends on the time of the season. The early spring application of fertilizer with crabgrass control needs water to activate the product. Watering or a spring rain will actually help this treatment. Otherwise, a light watering or a brief shower will not seriously impact the weed control treatment(s), but it is best to leave the product on the weed until it is absorbed.

Answer: If a dry application was applied, you can mow the same day. If, however, weed control was applied, do not mow for at least 24 hours. Refer to your treatment invoice for application details. If there is ever a question, do not hesitate to call our office for a prompt and courteous response.

Answer: Our three-way liquid weed control is the most effective broadleaf weed control available. The weeds should begin to curl up after 3 to 4 days following the application, but it will take up to 14 days for the weeds to be gone completely.

Answer: Voles, also known as field mice, often scurry back and forth in tunnels under the snow, creating paths in grassy vegetation. These trails are most noticeable in the spring after the snow melts. We recommend lightly raking the affected areas to remove dead grass from the tunnels. Reseeding may be necessary, depending on the severity of the damage, but the turf will usually repair itself. (See the photos below highlighting vole damage.)

Answer: Snow mold is caused by soil-borne fungi and is associated with melting snow or prolonged cold drizzly weather. Generally, infected areas are just a little slower to green up. The good news is turf will generally grow out of the condition on its own. We recommend to gently rake affected areas to lift the matted grass, to encourage it to dry out and prevent further fungal growth. This will hasten turf recovery as temperatures rise. (See the photos below highlighting snow mold.)

Answer: Dog damage is a common problem seen by dog owners. It's caused by high nitrogen levels from the dog's urine being in a concentrated area; it acts as a strong liquid fertilizer and can burn the grass, sometimes even causing dead patches. We recommend diluting the area after your dog has urinated, and having a designated area for them to use every day to minimize the damage. Most burn spots will recover with time and regrowth. For areas with dead patches, the only true way to repair is to re-seed or re-sod. (See the photos below highlighting dog damage.)